Pulpo (octopus) with chimichurri, fried garlic, and olive sauce
Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Nearly three-month-old Tanta is carving a new place in the Chicago culinary landscape for its upscale take on Peruvian food, a type of cuisine that I consistently enjoy. I was immediately refreshed by the Lima Llama (think Moscow mule, but with Peruvian pisco and lots of lime), one of the two cocktails on draft. It was the perfect precursor to one of the best octopus dishes I’ve ever had, right up there with Taxim’s Greek version from earlier this year. Cooked in the style of street-food skewers, the plump tentacles were draped with roasted red pepper, which added its own complementary char and spice. The extra-garlicky chimichurri potatoes underneath were like a more exotic version of hashbrowns, brought together by a briny, brilliantly purple olive sauce. The bright colors were what really made the plate – which seems to be Tanta’s strategy across its vibrant menu.
Lima Llama draft cocktail with pisco, lime, and ginger beer
Wood-grilled octopus with fennel and red onions (Htapodáki sti schára), Taxim
Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: For me, this octopus dish was all about texture. While I had high expectations after everything I’d heard about this Wicker Park restaurant, chef David Schneider still blew me away by managing to eliminate every ounce of rubberiness from the octopus. It was almost closer to a firm crab meat, unlike any octopus I’ve ever tasted. The smokiness from the grill seemed to evoke the essence of Greek cuisine, with the well-caramelized fennel, onion, and peppers adding aromatic depth. Even a couple of my friends who were octopus-shy enjoyed their bites! The dish was in good company with smoky eggplant dip, fried cauliflower, and other excellent savory and sweet plates, but it remained the star of the meal.
Arches and light fixtures inside TaximCocktail with Greek grape brandy, honey, and lemon, served warm
The details:Taxim, 1558 N. Milwaukee Ave., Chicago.
This is part of a series of posts about my vacation to Portland, Oregon, in late February 2013.
A quote on the chalkboard wall at Beast – words to live by!
Brunch at Beast
As I said on Twitter, I would consider this the best overall brunch experience of my life. I knew going into it that a four-course brunch (yes, that’s four courses) from one of my favorite chefs on Top Chef Masters would be nothing to scoff at, but there was so much else that came together to make the atmosphere extra-special. Both brunch and dinner at Beast are completely seasonal and change weekly based on that week’s market, so the prix fixe menu that’s posted outside the door is your first glimpse of what you’ll be eating, with no substitutions allowed. While I realize it isn’t for everyone, it probably goes without saying that I am always excited to eat this way. Although Chef Naomi was in Miami for the weekend, her staff treated us 24 or so diners with the utmost care, ushering us in right at 10 a.m. and meticulously plating each course in the open kitchen that comprised nearly half of the intimate space. In the other half, two large communal tables were filled by a collection of food-lovers from all over the country. Speaking of those fellow diners…in a fun coincidence, the party next to us was a couple from the LA-area and their two daughters, both of whom happened to be Northwestern alums, and the older of whom was even in my graduating class! Once we started to recognize each other and talk through our mutual friends and connections (with a little help from Facebook), it became even more startling that two people with so much in common just happened to be seated together at brunch all the way in Portland. Beyond that, it was just a delight to be around so many other foodies – including this one, with an extensive knowledge of food in most major cities and a great Twitter presence – and sharing the experience with people who wanted to soak it in the same way, iPhone-photo-snapping and all (no doubt this restaurant has inspired its own Portlandia sketches).
Of course, the food itself was equally excellent. To begin, the bacon-topped claufoutis was airy with lovely apple flavor – I tried to savor each spoonful, but I’ll admit that it went quickly. The hash combined so many of my favorite savory brunch ingredients that I felt as if they’d read my mind: duck, sweet potatoes, brussels sprouts, broccoli, mushrooms…a mixture that was rich, balanced, and all-out delicious. Next up was a plate of three outstanding (and very different) cheeses that were paired with greens so flavorful and nicely dressed that we could barely stop talking about them. And finally, I now dream of wrapping up every brunch with a smooth, ultra-dark chocolate stout cake cloaked in more chocolate and topped with gold-leaf-flecked chantilly cream. If this is what Beast’s morning meal is like, I’d love to go back someday for a six-course dinner, and make a few more new food-fanatic friends.
Northern Spy Apple clafoutis with soft whipped cream and maple-glazed baconBeast hash with duck confit, heirloom broccoli, maitake mushrooms, sweet potatoes, brussels sprouts, poached farm egg, and hollandaiseSelection of Steve’s cheeses (cow, goat, sheep) with Groundworks organic greens and citrus vinaigretteDark chocolate stout cake with crème chantilly
Toro Bravo draws crowds for its imaginative tapas, so we had to see what the hype was about. We got there right as the restaurant opened for dinner and claimed a seat at the kitchen counter, which was a fun way to see how some of our food came together and listen to the expedite process and general flow of the kitchen. I was genuinely impressed by most of our dishes, and understood why this place had developed a strong following. The boquerones, for example, were treated as exactly the salty delicacy they should be, served atop piperade with such depth that it felt like it had to have been simmering on a grandmother’s stove all day. I was also a little obsessed with the baked polenta, which was basically the best qualities of a cheesesteak and creamy grits rolled together into one. Great cocktails and attentive service as well.
Octopus a la planchaRadicchio salad with green olive toast and manchego vinaigretteBoquerones with grilled bread and piperadeBaked polenta with roast beef, peppers, and onions
Each day in December, I’m celebrating my best bites (and sips) in 2012, posted in chronological order.
Baby octopus gyro
Why it’s a Best Bite: I was eager to try The Peasantry as soon as it opened, as I adored the upscale street food concept and already was impressed by its sister restaurant, Franks ‘n’ Dawgs. While our whole meal was enjoyable, I particularly loved each of the components of this gyro: meaty grilled octopus, luscious roti, and especially the added touch of the grapes. I savored this dish’s uniqueness, and concluded that it successfully evoked the essence of street food.
The details: The Peasantry, 2723 N. Clark St., Chicago.
