This is part of a series of posts about my vacation to Portland, Oregon, in late February 2013.
West coast oysters, Andina
This post is a bit of a catch-all, to cover the rest of the great food that didn’t fit into any of the other posts. We knew we had to experience a few food carts, which are a big part of Portland’s dining culture, and got to try an Indian naan wrap, a savory gourmet waffle, British chips with curry sauce, and Nong’s khao man gai, the simple Thai dish that came up in our research again and again. And the latter lived up to expectations: humble poached chicken, rice, and sauce, prepared with enough love and meticulous care to turn into something extraordinary. Happy hour and fresh seafood were two other must-dos; those endeavors resulted in boldly delicious Peruvian food and the best cioppino I’ve ever had, respectively. An incredibly decadent bread pudding was a pleasant surprise with our beer flight one evening – it helped that my favorite desserts include caramel, chocolate, or coffee flavors, and this one nailed all three. We also took the suggestion of my beautiful and talented friend by indulging in a biscuit swimming in staggeringly umami-rich vegetarian gravy at Gravy, and also made a few meals out of their fantastic smoked salmon hash.
Mixta Nikkei causa with Yukon Gold potato, spicy tuna and crab salad, and crispy breaded prawn, AndinaBread basket with three sauces, AndinaCioppino, Cabezon Restaurant & FishmarketVeggie wrap, Taste of India food cartSignature dish from Nong’s Khao Man Gai food cartABC waffle with arugula, bacon, camembert cheese, and fig jam, The Gaufre Gourmet food cartChips with curry sauce, The Frying Scotsman food cartCaramel mocha bread pudding, Deschutes BreweryBiscuit with vegetarian gravy, GravySmoked salmon hash, Gravy
This is part of a series of posts about my vacation to Portland, Oregon, in late February 2013.
A quote on the chalkboard wall at Beast – words to live by!
Brunch at Beast
As I said on Twitter, I would consider this the best overall brunch experience of my life. I knew going into it that a four-course brunch (yes, that’s four courses) from one of my favorite chefs on Top Chef Masters would be nothing to scoff at, but there was so much else that came together to make the atmosphere extra-special. Both brunch and dinner at Beast are completely seasonal and change weekly based on that week’s market, so the prix fixe menu that’s posted outside the door is your first glimpse of what you’ll be eating, with no substitutions allowed. While I realize it isn’t for everyone, it probably goes without saying that I am always excited to eat this way. Although Chef Naomi was in Miami for the weekend, her staff treated us 24 or so diners with the utmost care, ushering us in right at 10 a.m. and meticulously plating each course in the open kitchen that comprised nearly half of the intimate space. In the other half, two large communal tables were filled by a collection of food-lovers from all over the country. Speaking of those fellow diners…in a fun coincidence, the party next to us was a couple from the LA-area and their two daughters, both of whom happened to be Northwestern alums, and the older of whom was even in my graduating class! Once we started to recognize each other and talk through our mutual friends and connections (with a little help from Facebook), it became even more startling that two people with so much in common just happened to be seated together at brunch all the way in Portland. Beyond that, it was just a delight to be around so many other foodies – including this one, with an extensive knowledge of food in most major cities and a great Twitter presence – and sharing the experience with people who wanted to soak it in the same way, iPhone-photo-snapping and all (no doubt this restaurant has inspired its own Portlandia sketches).
Of course, the food itself was equally excellent. To begin, the bacon-topped claufoutis was airy with lovely apple flavor – I tried to savor each spoonful, but I’ll admit that it went quickly. The hash combined so many of my favorite savory brunch ingredients that I felt as if they’d read my mind: duck, sweet potatoes, brussels sprouts, broccoli, mushrooms…a mixture that was rich, balanced, and all-out delicious. Next up was a plate of three outstanding (and very different) cheeses that were paired with greens so flavorful and nicely dressed that we could barely stop talking about them. And finally, I now dream of wrapping up every brunch with a smooth, ultra-dark chocolate stout cake cloaked in more chocolate and topped with gold-leaf-flecked chantilly cream. If this is what Beast’s morning meal is like, I’d love to go back someday for a six-course dinner, and make a few more new food-fanatic friends.
Northern Spy Apple clafoutis with soft whipped cream and maple-glazed baconBeast hash with duck confit, heirloom broccoli, maitake mushrooms, sweet potatoes, brussels sprouts, poached farm egg, and hollandaiseSelection of Steve’s cheeses (cow, goat, sheep) with Groundworks organic greens and citrus vinaigretteDark chocolate stout cake with crème chantilly
Toro Bravo draws crowds for its imaginative tapas, so we had to see what the hype was about. We got there right as the restaurant opened for dinner and claimed a seat at the kitchen counter, which was a fun way to see how some of our food came together and listen to the expedite process and general flow of the kitchen. I was genuinely impressed by most of our dishes, and understood why this place had developed a strong following. The boquerones, for example, were treated as exactly the salty delicacy they should be, served atop piperade with such depth that it felt like it had to have been simmering on a grandmother’s stove all day. I was also a little obsessed with the baked polenta, which was basically the best qualities of a cheesesteak and creamy grits rolled together into one. Great cocktails and attentive service as well.
Octopus a la planchaRadicchio salad with green olive toast and manchego vinaigretteBoquerones with grilled bread and piperadeBaked polenta with roast beef, peppers, and onions
This is part of a series of posts about my vacation to Portland, Oregon, in late February 2013.
We made a bit of a mess…
Late lunch at Pok Pok
When I first decided to go to Portland, Pok Pok was the restaurant that I immediately knew I’d visit. Pok Pok (a Thai slang term for a mortar and pestle) is helmed by Andy Ricker, who’s well-known in the restaurant world as an American chef who became obsessed with Thai cuisine and has stayed fiercely committed to authentically reproducing its bold, vibrant flavors in his restaurants. Pok Pok doesn’t take reservations and is known for long wait times, so we chose to go for late lunch (served 2:30–5 p.m.) to avoid the biggest crowds. Before we knew it, every inch of our cozy corner table was filled with metal dishes and serving bowls. Ranging from deliciously sticky chicken wings and succulent game hen to cool green papaya salad and curry soup with punchy garnishes, every dish struck the sour-sweet-salty-spicy balance that’s the hallmark of Thai cuisine. And the ice cream sandwich – coconut-jackfruit ice cream, chocolate, and condensed milk on a glorified hot dog bun – was a whimsical way to end the meal.
Condiments on the tableDrink list next to the bar, complete with Pok Pok’s wide selection of drinking vinegarsVietnamese fish sauce wingsPok Pok Special, with half a roasted game hen, green papaya salad, and dipping saucesSticky rice inside a basketKhao Soi mild curry noodle soup with tofu, garnished with pickled mustard greens, shallots, cilantro, and chili pasteCoconut ice cream sandwich on a sweet bun with peanuts, sticky rice, condensed milk, and chocolate syrup
Grüner, on the other hand, was a somewhat unlikelier dining destination. After coming across some excellent reviews and deciding that refined Alpine cuisine might be a fun direction to take, I made a late dinner reservation. It turned out to be an exquisite meal, with the flavors of German food that were so familiar, but presented here in an exceedingly clean and artful way. The gorgeous beet-pickled deviled eggs ranked among the best I’ve ever tasted, and we both couldn’t get over how the rabbit boudin blanc and hint of mustard simply melted into apples that were sautéed to exactly the right chew. Each component of both the jägerschnitzel entree and the walnut tart dessert married the heartiness of the Old World with the thoughtful, seasonal elegance of a cutting-edge restaurant in Portland. I also was introduced to another favorite local beer, Occidental Brewing’s Dunkelweizen, which made a great pairing.
Pretzel roll, bread, and butterBeet-pickled deviled eggsPolenta croquettes stuffed with raclette cheeseRabbit boudin blanc with sautéed granny smith apples and dijon mustardJägerschnitzel with sauteed veal cutlets, hen of the woods & hedgehog mushroom sauce, mustard spätzle, and spiced red cabbageWalnut tart with sauce bijou, bärenjäger honey syrup, and goat cheese ice cream
Consider this my official round-up of PDX libations. Before going any further, I have to tell you about the beer above, which was one of the very best, most memorable beers I’ve ever had. It was a special collaboration between Cascade Brewing and Oblique Coffee Roasters that we tried on our last night in Portland, and I loved it so much that it took several minutes for our waitress to finally convince me that taking a growler on the plane wasn’t the best idea (I settled for a bottle of Blueberry, my second favorite). It has the blonde color of a lager, but the body of a stout and the most intense, in-your-face coffee flavor that I’ve ever tasted in a beer. Addictive. Still wish I could have smuggled some back to Chicago…
We did tasting flights at three breweries (Widmer Brothers, Deschutes, and Cascade), and I was impressed by the variety and character of all three. Widmer Brothers is known for their Hefeweizen, and I also was taken by their Oatmeal Stout; at Deschutes, I liked the Black Butte Porter and Chainbreaker White IPA best, and fortunately those two are available here in Chicago. Wine-wise, we visited the SE Wine Collective to sample from four local wine producers who share the space. Oregon is known for its Pinot Noir, which I don’t drink often, so it was fun to explore new territory and settle on the 2010 Division “Un” to take home. Portland offered fantastic fruit-based cocktails as well, including an ultra-fresh, basil-enhanced pineapple mojito at Andina, and my first experience with pungent drinking vinegar in the apple gin rickey at Pok Pok.
Widmer Brothers Brewing flight: Hefeweizen, X-468, Raspberry Russian, Drop Top, X-291, and Oatmeal StoutDeschutes Brewery flight: Chainbreaker, Black Butte, DB Hefeweizen, Bomb Squad, Old Pilgrim, and PondhopperCascade Brewing Barrel House flight: Apricot, Noyaux, Blueberry, Raspberry, Bourbonic Plague, and more (not all pictured)Ready for a five-wine tasting at SE Wine Collective“Ricardo” (tequila, orange liqueur, ginger puree, pear puree, lime, cider reduction), H5O Bistro inside Hotel Fifty, where we stayedApple gin rickey (Som apple drinking vinegar, gin, lemon, and soda), Pok PokVela d’Oro (Coffee, Flor de Caña 4 yr. rum, orange juice reduction, Galliano cream), GrünerPineapple mojito (pineapple amber rum shaken with fresh crushed pineapple, lime juice, basil and cane sugar), Andina
This is part of a series of posts about my vacation to Portland, Oregon, in late February 2013.
Latte at Sterling Coffee Roasters
As is probably evident, my roommate/travel partner and I did a lot of research on the Portland food and drinks scene in preparation for our trip. Among the themes that quickly emerged: coffee and donuts, plus other artisanal sweets and breakfast items. With a little planning, we managed to hit most of the major places on our list. I knew we’d cover the classics – I’d heard about Voodoo Doughnut for years, and Stumptown is a well-known roaster whose brews I love when I can get them here in Chicago. But I didn’t expect another donut shop (Blue Star) to win me over with its brioche-like dough and bold-flavored glazes, or to taste such an outstanding bagel-and-cream-cheese combination at Bowery Bagels that I thought it could only exist in Sriracha-spiked dreams, or to have the best French macarons either of us had ever tasted at Ken’s. And as someone who loves spending time in coffee shops, I was thrilled by Stumptown’s wall of magazines to go with its impeccable cups (I paged through Barista and Imbibe) and the vastly different but equally enjoyable atmospheres at Extracto and Sterling. I could go on, but just see for yourself in the photos below.
Oreo-peanut butter “ODB” doughnut and apple fritter, Voodoo DoughnutBlueberry-bourbon-basil donut (and dulce de leche-hazelnut donut, not pictured), Blue Star DonutsThai chili peanut bagel with lemongrass cream cheese, Bowery BagelsBiscuit with pimento cheese, Pine State BiscutsAlmond brittle with salted ganache and Happy Birthday Elvis with malted banana, peanut butter, and marionberry jam, Salt & StrawMacarons in chocolate-mint, orange-ginger-chevre, and salted caramel-coffee, Ken’s Artisan BakeryChai latte, Extracto Coffeehouse & RoasteryCappuccino, Stumptown Coffee
This is part of a series of posts about my vacation to Portland, Oregon, in late February 2013. Jump to all posts.
Beer sample flights and caramel mocha bread pudding at Deschutes Brewery
I’m back from Portland, and let’s just say it far surpassed my gastronomic expectations. I was impressed by the quality and originality of everything I ate and drank, and generally had a blast. We got to explore the majority of the city – mostly on foot, to burn off at least a few calories! – and also ventured to nearby scenic areas during the last two days.
And now, a quick numerical breakdown:
Full days spent in Portland:4 Types of cuisine tried:9 Local beers sampled:29 Local wines sampled:7 Donut varieties tasted:4 Food carts visited:4 Coffee beverages consumed:8+ Sit-down meals enjoyed:7 Sales tax paid:$0!! Waterfalls seen:3
Wahkeena Falls
Needless to say, I have a lot to talk about here on the blog.
I found these bikes on a snowy morning in Chicago…but I’ll be seeing a whole lot more of them in Portland!
Just a quick update: I’ll be spending the next five days in Portland, Oregon, on vacation. I’ve never been before, but absolutely cannot wait to dive into a food scene I’ve heard so much about. We have an ambitious itinerary – for example, a different pairing of coffee shop and doughnut/bagel/biscuit place is planned for each morning – and hope to fit in as many food trucks, craft brews, and local fare as possible (while also taking in the beautiful scenery and culture of the city, of course). I’m especially looking forward to legendary Thai food on Saturday and a seasonal four-course brunch on Sunday!
Check back on the blog next week for a full report of my Portland adventures.
