Category: Travel Eats

Travel Eats documents my food adventures while traveling.

Here are belated dining highlights from my first time visiting Hilton Head, in spring 2022. We prioritized seafood and low country classics, but I was impressed at the variety of cuisine available at this vacation destination. Beyond that, I’m letting the photos tell the story!

The details: Fish Camp, 11 Simmons Rd.; Casablanca Mediterranean Grill, 1012 William Hilton Pkwy.; Pool Bar Jim’s, 10 North Forest Beach (Beach Marker 60); Doughboys, 1 New Orleans Rd.; Nunzio, 18 New Orleans Rd.; Nectar Farm Kitchen, 35 Office Park Rd.; ELA’s on the Water, 1 Shelter Cove Ln.; Hudson’s, 1 Hudson Rd.; The Black Marlin, 86 Helmsman Way; The Salty Dog Cafe, 232 S. Sea Pines Dr.; Hilton Head Social Bakery, 17 Harborside Ln. (Building 1); all Hilton Head Island, SC.

Travel Eats documents my food adventures while traveling.

I’d always heard that Alaska was in a class of its own, but experiencing the vast landscape and beauty during a recent 10-day family vacation was far beyond what I had pictured. We explored the southern part of the state using nearly every form of transportation: bus, plane, boat, train, raft (and probably others I’m forgetting!) – and I loved sampling local fare along the way.

Of course, Alaskan salmon is famous the world over, so I sought it out at a few different restaurants. The best version was at Glacier Brewhouse in Anchorage, grilled over alder wood and perfectly cooked to retain its deep pink color. The Brewhouse is also known for its calamari, which came in possibly the largest segments I’ve ever seen and had a double-jalapeño kick in the form of slices and spiked aioli. I’d go back and order both again.

Seafood was available pretty much wherever we went, so I made sure to try other varieties as well. The king crab roll at Karstens Public House, near Denali National Park, let its local crab shine with just enough creaminess to hold it together. Fish tacos were also common, often with halibut; I enjoyed a rockfish version with avocado crema at Seasalt in the coastal town of Seward.

Humpy’s is a long-time institution in Anchorage, and I was pleasantly surprised that the quality of the food belied the dive-bar vibe. The just-thick-enough salmon chowder had a generous topping of house-smoked salmon and loads of dill. I also adored the crabby patty melt, which fused a garlicky crab-cake patty with lots of melty cheese and other burger toppings for a remarkable result.

Another dining goal for our time in Alaska was trying the game meats that are much more commonly available there. The most successful dish was a mouthwatering caribou meatloaf with sticky glaze in Talkeetna (that my husband ordered and that I regret not stealing even more bites of).

I also indulged in a bacon-wrapped buffalo meatloaf at 49th State Brewing, well-dressed with onion strings and an umami-rich demi-glace. I paired it with what ended up being a favorite beer of the trip: the Golden Dall Belgian tripel (with its own signature glass), named after the mythical sheep that’s said to reign over nearby Denali. Also, in the background, their draft cream soda packed with local blueberries was an excellent zero-proof option.

49th State’s most award-winning beer is the Smōk, which was sold out on draft but available to-go, and the delightfully smoky flavor was even more enjoyable while perched on our hotel balcony during one of the 20+ hours of sunlight this time of year.

I also had the chance to get a little creative with pizza toppings and added reindeer sausage to a Hawaiian-style pizza at Moose’s Tooth in Anchorage, known to have the best pizza in Alaska. I also tried their apple ale, one of several beers brewed at their onsite brewery Broken Tooth, and I loved the punch of apple flavor without the typical sweetness of cider. Their namesake canned root beer was also worth seeking out whenever we saw it on other menus.

Our local brewery trend continued with the memorable Girdwood Brewing. Their proximity to the Alyeska resort informed the ski theme, complete with a chair lift on the wall and as part of the outdoor seating. Their coffee stout was bold yet easy-drinking, and since we visited at dinner time, we also made a stop at the on-site food truck for savory and sweet crepes. My basil pesto crepe with bacon really did transport me to France, to match the après-ski atmosphere.

While we didn’t visit them directly, Alaskan was the most common brewer we saw, and this can of white ale was particularly memorable. It marked our visit to the Sockeye Saloon, the only bar in the tiny town of King Salmon – so tiny that the airport called the bar directly to see if our party of 18 was there, and to tell us our plane back to Anchorage was departing early and that we needed to walk next door to the airport immediately!

That was actually the Fourth of July, when we spent the day at Katmai National Park and entered the habitat of more than 2,000 brown bears. We had a bit of a close encounter with a bear that was mere feet away on the trail (and famously known as 747 in the park for his enormous size), so the buffet lunch at Brooks Lodge was especially satisfying and well-deserved as we recovered from the rather frightening event.

We also made memorable toasts in a few surprising locations. While on a boat ride through Kenai Fjords National Park, the crew harvested ice deposited by the Holgate Glacier (the main attraction on our all-day tour) and used chunks in festive margaritas. Another day, about 90 minutes into a float trip down the Placer River (also glacier-adjacent), our guide magically pulled out a thermos and cocoa mix, and we got to enjoy exceptionally scenic hot chocolate right then and there on the raft.

Alaska isn’t without its baked goods, and the two best were at bakeries in the Girdwood ski area. At Alpine Cafe and Bakery, the raspberry fritter was airy and packed with fruit; meanwhile The Bake Shop’s famously large sweet roll had fluffy, citrusy inner layers with almonds and glaze on a crispy top.

One last pair of standout desserts came aboard the Alaska Railroad train to Denali. We were seated in the Wilderness Express dome car, with sweeping views of the scenery, and our trip included lunch in the lower-level dining area. We couldn’t choose between the two desserts, and I’m very glad we ended up with both. The pie, gooey with five different fruits, and the sundae with local birch syrup (which tasted like a mix of caramel and maple, and immediately made the list for souvenir purchases) and brittle crumble, both matched the extra-special atmosphere of the entire ride.

Finally, on the last day of the trip, I had the chance to stop at one of the ubiquitous drive-up coffee shacks I saw throughout the state (the drive-up part is especially useful during the colder months, I hear). My coconut mocha, with real milk chocolate stirred in, was a luscious morning treat.

The details: Moose’s Tooth, 3300 Old Seward Hwy., Anchorage; Brooks Lodge at Katmai National Park & Preserve, King Salmon; Sockeye Saloon, Mile 15 on Alaska Peninsula Hwy., King Salmon; Alpine Cafe and Bakery,  1 Alyeska Hwy., Girdwood; The Bake Shop, 194 Olympic Mountain Loop, Girdwood; Girdwood Brewing and Crepes de Paris food truck, 2700 Alyeska Hwy., Girdwood; Spirit of Adventure boat with Major Marine Tours, Seward; Seasalt, 133 Fourth Ave., Seward; Placer River Float with Chugach Adventures, Spencer Glacier Whistle Stop; Base Camp Bistro at Talkeetna Alaskan Lodge, 23601 S. Talkeetna Spur Rd., Talkeetna; Wilderness Express dining room on Alaska Railroad Denali Star train; 49th State Brewing Company, Mile 248.4 Parks Hwy., Healy; Karsten’s Public House at McKinley Chalet Resort, 238.9 Parks Hwy., Denali Park; Glacier Brewhouse, 737 W 5th Ave., Anchorage; Black Bear Coffee Company, 4300 Forrest Rd., Anchorage; Humpy’s Great Alaskan Alehouse, 610 W 6th Ave., Anchorage; all Alaska.

Travel Eats documents my food adventures while traveling.

We had originally scheduled this trip to celebrate our first anniversary in April 2020, but we all know how that timing turned out! More than a year later, we were even more grateful for a substantial change of scenery and the ability to travel across the country now that we were fully vaccinated. I enjoyed finally visiting a city I’d always heard so much about and the variety of cuisines available.

Of course, my top priority was fresh seafood, and Ironside Fish & Oyster in Little Italy didn’t disappoint. The local rock crab was beautifully served with fragrant, creamy coconut curry rice in the cavity. The extra effort to dig out the sweet meat for a dunk in the drawn butter was definitely worth it. My other half also experienced a revelatory dish: chowder fries (exactly what it sounds like). I’m now tempted to recreate this combination at other restaurants, regardless of the confused looks that might ensue.

The tempura cauliflower with a zippy chili sauce was a welcome veggie addition to our meal. I also sampled a couple of briny oysters (with especially pungent horseradish!), washed down with a Buenaveza salt & lime lager from local Stone Brewing.

The grand seafood finale came in our last dinner of the trip at C Level: a platter with salmon tartare, Old Bay-rubbed shrimp, an ahi tuna-crab salad-mango salsa tower, and a half-dozen oysters. It was decadent and refreshing, with so many of my favorite ocean flavors. C Level’s sherry-topped lobster bisque was also top-notch. Besides the food, the main draw of this restaurant on Harbor Island was the sweeping skyline views, which made the experience even more special.

We also saw great views at Pier Cafe, a waterfront restaurant in Seaport Village. The crab cake appetizer made an excellent snack after lots of exploring, especially when paired with a gingery happy hour cocktail with strawberry, basil, and mint.

Another San Diego food priority was Mexican cuisine, so I was happy to discover a family-owned taco shop a short walk from our hotel that served breakfast burritos. The savory chorizo, egg, potato, salsa, and cheese were well-blended and tightly wrapped in the tortilla. Just half of this hefty burrito was the perfect fuel for a day at the renowned San Diego Zoo.

And continuing with the outrageously-topped-fries theme, we sampled tsunami fries from Lolita’s, which featured both carne asada and shrimp as meaty toppings, as well as cabbage- and pico-laden fish tacos.

Our most captivating restaurant experience of the trip was at Morning Glory, a popular brunch spot in Little Italy with an opulent, pink-washed interior and tons of fun details (like the champagne vending machine across from our table). I went with the cheesy khachapuri and the coconutty Irish coffee, and both hit the spot for high-end brunch fare.

The best bites of the meal, though, were the fluffy Japanese-style soufflé pancakes – sky-high, custardy cakes paired with syrup and not-too-sweet whipped cream. They were a unique kind of delicious, and I can see why they’re a best-seller.

We’d also heard great things about the exquisite creations at Extraordinary Desserts, and after a lot of gazing through the glass display case, we chose a slice of cake decked out with rose petals and pink and white chocolate shavings, hinting at the guava mousse, strawberries, and Kirsch-infused vanilla layers inside. A celebration-worthy slice, to be sure.

We rounded out our dessert experience with ice cream from Salt & Straw, a scoop shop I’d visited in its original Portland location many years ago, but has since expanded to more West Coast cities. The salted, malted cookie dough flavor lived up to its name, pleasantly salty with a ribbon of rich malted fudge.

I was also very happy to stumble across charming Daniel’s Coffee, a tiny stand inside the colorful Spanish Village Art Center in Balboa Park near the zoo. My iced dirty chai was one of the best I’ve had.

One last gem came when we took the ferry over to Coronado Island. Clayton’s Coffee Shop was an endearing kitschy retro diner with bottomless “great diner coffee,” a massive menu, and a walk-up window slinging pie and milkshakes. My caprese-inspired avocado toast, while requiring a little construction, was a great mix of California flavors, and the side of creamed corn (that I amped up with some shakes of Tapatio hot sauce that seems to be ubiquitous in Southern California) was classic and comforting.

The details: Morning Glory, 550 W Date St.; Pier Cafe, 885 W Harbor Dr.;  Ironside Fish & Oyster, 1654 India St.; Lucy’s Taco Shop, 109 W C St., Suite D; Daniel’s Coffee, 1770 Village Place; Lolita’s Mexican Food, 202 Park Blvd.; Salt & Straw, 1670 India St.; Extraordinary Desserts, 1430 Union St.; C Level, 880 Harbor Island Dr.; all San Diego; Clayton’s Coffee Shop, 979 Orange Ave., Coronado.

Travel Eats documents my food adventures while traveling.

We’d faced the fact that there would be no “normal” vacations in 2020, but after months of quarantine, we were desperate for a change of scenery. Door County emerged as our chosen weekend getaway destination for its reasonably close proximity, well-regarded food (especially its cherries!), and peaceful waterfront views to soothe the anxieties of this season. As a disclaimer, we ate exclusively outdoors at restaurants with distanced tables and mask policies.

We were first-timers to Door County, but quickly saw why the area is called the Cape Cod of the Midwest: each town along the peninsula had its own coastal personality, and there was plentiful fresh seafood. At Harbor Fish Market in Bailey’s Harbor, along the shore of Lake Michigan, flaky local whitefish came beautifully blackened with spicy layers of seasoning and compound butter.

The lobster roll at Boathouse on the Bay came highly recommended by friends whose Door County visit barely missed overlapping with ours. It was a solid recommendation, with sizable pieces of lobster that were lightly dressed enough to shine on their own. And the same buttery split-top bun was also used for the hulking Wisconsin bratwurst my husband ordered, to his delight. Our waterfront view added to the East Coast-style experience.

In Egg Harbor, we found unexpectedly creative Cajun-inspired cuisine at The Fireside. We started with hush puppies, richly studded with both andouille and lobster, then finished with a zingy aioli. My fried alligator tacos were topped with a flavorful Southwest-Asian fusion of corn relish, lemongrass, and chili sauce, and the side of grits was ultra-creamy from lots of goat cheese. And because it was our first meal after crossing into Wisconsin, I couldn’t help but pair it with the beloved Spotted Cow beer from New Glarus.

I was excited for opportunities to sample the ubiquitous local cherries. At breakfast, that meant fluffy cherry pancakes at the charming Old Post Office Restaurant, aptly named for the building’s usage in the early 1900s. As a bonus, our outdoor table afforded a lovely view of the water in Ephraim, our favorite of the towns for its scenery.

Another morning, in Fish Creek, I started the day with perhaps the best vegetarian breakfast sandwich I’ve had. Between two slices of ciabatta were a whopping nine layers of roasted veggies, sauces, cheese, and a jammy egg – complex and delicious.

Another sandwich success was the tuna melt at Stone Harbor in Sturgeon Bay, our last stop of the weekend. The melty Wisconsin cheddar and generously toasted bread made it a fine example of the comfort food classic.

And like any good getaway destination, there were plenty of sweets. We savored our shortcake crumble sundae with local strawberry compote at Not Licked Yet, a frozen custard shop that’s been in Fish Creek for nearly 40 years. We’d also heard excellent things about the pies at Sweetie Pies and the goat’s milk gelato at Door County Creamery, so planned ahead to save our slices until we could pair the two together. It was absolutely worth the wait.

The details: The Fireside Restaurant, 7755 Hwy. 42, Egg Harbor; Blue Horse Beach Cafe, 4113 Main St., Fish Creek; Not Licked Yet, 4054 Main St., Fish Creek; Sweetie Pies, 9016 Hwy. 42, Fish Creek; Harbor Fish Market & Grille, 8080 Hwy. 57, Baileys Harbor; Old Post Office Restaurant, 10040 Water St., Ephraim; Door County Creamery, 10653 N Bay Shore Dr., Sister Bay; Boathouse on the Bay, 10716 N Bay Shore Dr., Sister Bay; Stone Harbor Restaurant, 107 N First Ave., Sturgeon Bay (all Wisconsin).

Travel Eats documents my food adventures while traveling.

Well, a lot has changed since my last post. I got engaged, took a year off from blogging to plan a wedding, and am now happily married! This also means I’ve become Hillary Weller rather than Hillary Proctor, but the blog name will remain the same for now.

We just returned from 10 days in Hawaii for our honeymoon, so that seemed a fitting return to blogging. We split our time between two Hawaiian islands: Kauai and Oahu. On Kauai, we covered the majority of the island; for Oahu, we stayed primarily in the Waikiki Beach area of Honolulu. This was my first time setting foot anywhere in the state, so I was anxious to try the source of all the Hawaiian flavors I’d enjoyed from afar.

I’ll start with my favorite dish of the trip. It was one that came highly recommended at Eggs ‘n Things, a beloved Honolulu breakfast spot: macadamia nut pancakes. The nut-studded cakes were unbelievably fluffy underneath their griddled exterior, and the addition of fresh pineapple and the restaurant’s signature coconut syrup made them truly remarkable. I loved these pancakes so much that they merited a repeat visit: we went back for our last meal before heading to the airport to fly home. That time, I ordered a slight variation (banana in the pancakes and macadamia on top) and they were still just as stellar. I also happily took home a bottle of the coconut syrup.

We had a favorite breakfast spot in Kauai, too. A lovely bakery happened to be conveniently located across the road from where we were staying, so we tried a few of their pastry selections. Both the mango muffin and the roasted pineapple croissant-scone hybrid showcased the fruit flavors of the island.

Another morning dish I’d been anxious to try was the açai bowl, a surfer favorite that’s anchored by an açai berry frozen yogurt-style base, then layered with granola and fresh fruit. At Little Fish Coffee on Kauai, our bowl boasted peanut butter and chocolate chips in addition to the fruit and granola. It was the rich fuel we needed for the rest of the day’s adventures. In Waikiki, we sought out the bowl at Island Vintage Coffee. The açai and granola were delicious, but the sweet local banana and fragrant Hawaiian honey were what really shined.

While we’re on the sweet side of things, let’s talk shave (not shaved!) ice, a traditional frozen treat in Hawaii with all kinds of variations. We went back to Island Vintage for their Pink Island, whose ice mound had half strawberry syrup and half super-refreshing lychee mint syrup, plus mochi, lychee boba, fresh strawberry, and condensed milk to top it off. At Uncle’s on Kauai, they served shave snow, where the creaminess and fruit flavor was already incorporated into the ice before shaving. After adding a haupia (coconut) cream top, I couldn’t help but slurp up every bite.

To be sure, Hawaii wasn’t short on frozen treats – from classic soft-serve pineapple Dole whip to ice cream served in an adorable “hang loose” cone to a sky-high Hula Pie enjoyed along the Waikiki beachfront at Duke’s, our collective sweet tooth remained sated.

We tried a lot of savory Hawaiian favorites as well. At Lava Lava Beach Club on Kauai, we had loco moco, traditionally a burger patty with egg, rice, and gravy, and in this case with a mountain of fried onions and a delicious patty blend of beef and sweet Portuguese sausage. That meal was extra memorable because we looked up from our beachfront table and spotted a whale in the distance! Later, we also tried a classic, no-fuss plate lunch with freshly-fried chicken katsu, sticky white rice, and macaroni salad.

Our most theatrical dining experience by far was at the Smith Family Garden Luau on Kauai. Our evening began with a tram ride around the property, then we had time to explore the lush grounds on foot. Next, we witnessed the imu ceremony, in which a whole-roasted, leaf-wrapped Kalua pig is carefully removed from its earthen oven.

From there, it was time to enjoy a mai tai and the full buffet. This was my chance to try poi, a starchy Hawaiian staple that’s polarizing among visitors. Unfortunately, I had to agree with the naysayers: even when paired with the meat, the poi retained an unpleasant flavor, and its paste-like texture only made matters worse. But there were plenty of other dishes to enjoy, like the mahimahi, purple yams, lomi salmon, and of course the pig, whose smoke-kissed flavor was in a class of its own. Dinner was also accompanied by live Hawaiian music and a hula lesson.

Finally, we moved to the amphitheater for the stage show, featuring dances and rituals that represent many of Hawaii’s cultural influences (plus some impressive pyrotechnics). The whole experience was as seamless and well-choreographed as a Disney enterprise – it was undoubtedly a highlight of our trip.

Seafood was another top priority during our time in Hawaii. I had the chance to enjoy poke in two forms, one on each island. At Shaka Poke, a tucked-away gem in one of Waikiki’s shopping malls, hunks of salmon and ahi tuna came dressed in spicy mayo with seaweed and avocado. It was the ideal humble meal to eat on the beach, especially with a view of the resort skyline and Diamond Head at dusk. On Kauai, Sam’s Ocean View used tuna poke to adorn wonton chip nachos, alongside avocado, spicy aioli, and plenty of black sesame. It was the kind of snack you can’t stop eating.

The most eclectic fish I tried during the trip was moonfish at Mahina & Sun’s in Honolulu. The fish itself was dense and held up to the mixture of Mediterranean flavors in the rest of the dish – lots of fennel, olive, sumac, and lightly pickled cucumber, plus grilled flatbread to sop it all up.

On our second night in Honolulu, we joined the throngs of people in line for Marukame Udon. The wait was very much worth it for tender, hand-pulled udon noodles in a rich curry broth. Between picking up your noodle bowl and getting to the cash register, you could select tempura items and other appetizers buffet-style, so I took that as an opportunity to try spam musubi (seared slice of spam over rice with a seaweed wrapper, like nigiri). It was easy to see why it’s such a popular Hawaiian snack.

Our last dinner of the trip was at Senia, Honolulu’s buzziest fine-dining restaurant. There was a lot to love on the menu; the ahi brioche and citrus-cured hamachi both celebrated Hawaiian flavors in a creative and beautiful way.

It was certainly a special introduction to Hawaii for me…but exploring the cuisine of the islands we didn’t visit seems like a very good excuse to return!

The details: Eggs ‘n Things, 339 Saratoga Rd., Honolulu; Passion Bakery Cafe, 4-356 Kuhio Hwy., Ste. 121, Kapa’a; Uncle’s Shave Ice, 4454 Nuhou St. #419, Lihue; Smith Family Garden Luau, 3-5971 Kuhio Hwy., Kapa’a; Lava Lava Beach Club, 420 Papaloa Rd., Kapa’a; Little Fish Coffee, 3900 Hanapepe Rd., Ste. D, Hanapepe; Sam’s Ocean View, 4-1546 Kuhio Hwy., Kapa’a; Hilo Hattie, 3-3252 Kuhio Hwy., Lihue; Ai Ono Cafe at Lihue Airport, 3901 Mokulele Loop, Lihue; Mahina & Sun’s, 412 Lewers St., Honolulu; Marukame Udon, 2310 Kūhiō Ave #124, Honolulu; Shaka Poke, 2250 Kalakaua Ave., Honolulu; Duke’s Waikiki, 2335 Kalakaua Ave., Ste. 116, Honolulu; Island Vintage Coffee, 2301 Kalakaua Ave. #C215, Honolulu; Senia, 75 N. King St., Honolulu; Kokoro Cafe, 2233 Kalakaua Ave., Honolulu; Island Vintage Shave Ice, 2201 Kalakaua Ave., Kiosk B-1, Honolulu (all Hawaii).

Travel Eats documents my food adventures while traveling.

I’ve been staying extra busy the past few months (apologies, blog readers!) with a new role at work, and that role took me to our Bay Area offices for a week. While it was a pretty packed schedule, I still fit in some quality meals.

The night I arrived in San Francisco, I made a beeline for the Mission, a neighborhood that I knew from experience was great for dining. Foreign Cinema stood out for its sleek open-air dining space with string lights and a movie projected on the back wall. The food was also excellent – from a Catalonian noodle dish, brimming with four kinds of seafood and a buttery cumin sauce, to smoky, mole-slathered calamari with lime and tortilla chips.

Dottie’s True Blue Cafe is a comfort food classic that had come highly recommended by friends, so I made sure to stop for brunch. I arrived just before it opened, and a line had already formed, as is typical, but the short wait was worth it. I went for the frittata special, a mammoth plate of eggs stuffed with some of my favorite ingredients (avocado, corn, feta), plus a side of crispy cornbread with pepper jelly. While I was far too full to try any of the bakery offerings during my visit, I managed to bring a small loaf of Dottie’s signature coffee cake back to Chicago (and was very glad I did).

Another landmark I finally tried this trip was Mission Chinese Food, chef Danny Bowien’s trail-blazing take on Chinese cuisine that opened in the Mission nearly ten years ago, and now has locations elsewhere. Of the dishes I tried, the Westlake lamb dumplings stood out for their balance of tangy sauce, crispy wonton wrapper, and lots of fresh dill.

One unexpected dining success came at Hogwash, a craft-beer-and-sausage spot in Union Square. While I first chose the Burnin’ Brock sausage sandwich almost solely for its fried avocado, the rest of the spicy, crunchy flavors came together exceptionally well for one of the most satisfying bites of the trip.

And I did still fit in a few sweet indulgences, starting with Tartine Manufactory, the recent restaurant offshoot of legendary Tartine Bakery. I went with a fairly simple sundae – strawberry and vanilla swirl soft-serve, colorful sprinkles, and candied almonds – but it was elevated just enough to feel special.

Bi-Rite, another favorite from past trips, has both a market and an ice cream shop on the same block. Rather than waiting in the long ice cream line, I picked up an ice cream sandwich (and a few other edible souvenirs) from the market. After a ride home to thaw, the rich coffee ice cream melted into the crumbly brown sugar cookies to the point that it might as well have been fresh from the shop.

Speaking of coffee, there are a wealth of great roasters in San Francisco, but one of the stalwarts is Blue Bottle, so I felt very fortunate to have a shop within walking distance of my hotel. Their latte really is worth savoring.

The details: Foreign Cinema, 2534 Mission St.; Dottie’s True Blue Cafe, 28 6th St.; Mission Chinese Food, 2234 Mission St.; Hogwash, 582 Sutter; Tartine Manufactory, 595 Alabama St.; Bi-Rite Market, 3639 18th St.; Blue Bottle Coffee, 66 Mint St.; all San Francisco, California.

Travel Eats documents my food adventures while traveling.

In the fall, I spent a long weekend in Nashville with a girlfriend. We were there to celebrate another friend’s wedding – which had incredible culinary offerings of its own, I might add – but also managed to sample a lot of other local offerings.

I have to begin with Butcher & Bee, where their brunch menu was possibly the most enticing and creative one I saw all year. I absolutely couldn’t get over the whipped feta appetizer, with a pool of fermented honey and a healthy dusting of black pepper. It was deceptively simple at first glance, but the feta spread was so outrageously good with the blistered pita bread that I’m sure I’ll be recalling it for years to come.

I was also impressed by the most beautiful presentation of delicata squash I’ve seen at any meal, much less brunch. From the lacy fried egg to nutty farro to juicy pomegranate seeds, it was a lovely, still-light dish. For balance, the breakfast sandwich biscuit put us back into richer territory. A fluffy biscuit was slathered with more whipped feta (!), plus egg and maple-sage sausage. It was a classic done very well.

And because I had loved Husk so much while visiting Charleston four years ago, I knew I had to check out the Nashville location. I first made sure we ordered the pimento cheese in some form, as chef Sean Brock is known for it. Here, it was hidden underneath a tunnel of seedy crackers, but still as good as I’d remembered.

My favorite dish, though, turned out to be the crab rice. Amidst so many different textures, the buttery crab flavor still shone through in the best way.

Another highlight was the duck confit and its ash-buried beets (it sounds strange, but worked). And for dessert, we had the most adorable popsicle, almost like a Creamsicle but with melon and a hint of crunch.

Nashville is also known for the classic meat-and-three (a meat main course with three side dishes). For that, we went straight to Arnold’s, the top recommendation from a coworker who grew up in the area. We arrived right at opening, to avoid the long lunchtime lines, and weren’t disappointed by the extra-fresh-and-crispy fried chicken, creamy mac-n-cheese, and vinegary greens. And I couldn’t pass up a comforting slice of strawberry pie with a mile-high blanket of whipped cream on top.

Since we were staying in East Nashville, it was convenient to explore the up-and-coming food scene there. We happened upon Five Daughters Bakery, and saw that their version of a cronut (croissant-donut hybrid) claimed to have 100 layers. I didn’t count them, but did conclude that putting a smear of cookie dough on top of any donut is a brilliant idea. In that same category of hybrid indulgences was the waffle grilled cheese at The Terminal Café (I’m hopeful that Chicago will catch up to this idea soon).

I was excited to briefly check out Pinewood Social, an airy all-day venue with novelties such as bowling lines and a pool. While we didn’t stay for those activities, it was still worth it to sip this cocktail, a julep variation with added depth from amaro and ginger.

It was warm enough to still crave caffeine over ice, so I found two delicious versions: the iced bourbon vanilla latte at Barista Parlor, a gorgeous converted garage space; and the salted maple pecan cold brew at The Trailer Perk, an adorable mobile shop parked inside the Nashville Farmers Market.

One last trend worth mentioning was turmeric – the golden-hued powder is becoming increasingly popular for its health benefits, so it kept popping up everywhere we went. I tried it in a latte with other warm spices at Ugly Mugs, then in a cooler at Café Roze; both were flavorful and somehow cleansing. I have to say, too, that having that vibrant cooler alongside (really good) avocado toast, all on top of a millennial pink table, felt like the most Instagram-worthy moment of 2017.

The details: Butcher & Bee, 902 Main St.; Husk Nashville, 37 Rutledge St.; The Terminal Cafe, 733 Porter Rd.; Five Daughters Bakery, 1900 Eastland Ave.; Pinewood Social, 33 Peabody St.; Barista Parlor, 519B Gallatin Ave.; Ugly Mugs, 1886 Eastland Ave.; The Trailer Perk at Nashville Farmers’ Market, 900 Rosa L. Parks Blvd.; Arnold’s Country Kitchen, 605 8th Ave S.; Cafe Roze.

Travel Eats documents my food adventures while traveling.

In the midst of a week of celebratory Las Vegas dining, I knew that I wanted dinner on my actual birthday to feel extra special. I’d always heard about Le Cirque’s legacy in New York over the decades, and it just felt right to go classic French for this milestone birthday.

I’m happy to report that from the moment we walked into the restaurant, our party was treated in a way that befit such a special occasion. The whimsical and strikingly colorful “circus tent” ceiling set an appropriately celebratory tone, and the window beside our table afforded a view of the famous Bellagio fountains, making the whole thing just a bit more magical.

The whimsy continued with the amuse-bouche: a hollowed-out egg was refilled with lemon mousse and a dollop of carrot mousse, both tinted and shaped to resemble the egg’s original contents. It was a delightful way to start the meal.

I ordered the escargots as my appetizer, and was pleased to see that Le Cirque’s version went far beyond the typical garlic butter bath. The bowl was filled with so many textures: tomato confit, crispy croutons, tender greens; and, of course, lots of snails and butter for a hearty and aromatic dish.

Thankfully, a dining companion ordered the foie gras starter instead, so I was more than happy to sample a few bites of one of my favorite foods. The crunchy texture of puffed rice and grains on top, together with the sweet floral sauce pooled underneath, made this version really stand out.

For my entrée, I stayed classic with roast chicken, mushrooms, potatoes, and asparagus. Everything was expertly executed – especially the near-silky chicken – and the foie gras sauce gave it another touch of luxury.

When it came time for dessert, I was given an option: either the chocolate ball that the rest of the table had ordered, or an off-menu soufflé. I couldn’t pass up the quintessential demonstration of culinary technique that is the soufflé, so I chose that. However, due to a mix-up in the kitchen, I ended up with both desserts! For the chocolate ball, melted chocolate was heated to a precise temperature and poured over the ice cream-filled ball, causing it to gradually crack in a way was completely mesmerizing. The hot-and-cold contrast with a bit of praline crunch was absolute chocolate paradise.

Then, the sky-high chocolate soufflé arrived, and again I was transfixed by the skill of the pastry chefs. There are so many things that can go wrong with a soufflé, and even the best ones can still fall quickly, so tasting its airy, chocolate-y magic bite after bite left a lasting impression.

We were each sent on our way with a red leather box that had a housemade truffle tucked inside each of its two drawers. Weeks later, one glance at the box and my mind is right back to re-living this extraordinary meal.

The details: Le Cirque at Bellagio, 3600 S. Las Vegas Blvd., Las Vegas.

Travel Eats documents my food adventures while traveling.

To celebrate my 30th birthday, I gathered some of my closest girlfriends and made my first-ever trip to Las Vegas. I took advantage of my full week there by sampling cuisine from several of the world-class resorts and elsewhere on the Strip, plus a few stops downtown.

I knew I couldn’t go to Vegas without experiencing a buffet, and chose the Wynn for both food quality and overall aesthetics. As you can see above, it was a jaw-dropping floral wonderland. Amidst the overwhelming selection (mini-baskets of fish and chips! Tuna poké and dumplings! Mini-skillets of shrimp and grits! So many hand-carved meats!), my favorite station was the made-to-order latkes, which were served either reuben-style (corned beef and sauerkraut) or with smoked salmon, capers, lemon, and chive sour cream (my selection; it was exceptional). And on top of all that, there’s a full room dedicated to dessert, complete with a spinning gelato wheel. It was a true midday feast.

Momofuku was high on my to-do list, since I’ve still never been to the original New York location. It made the most sense to visit during Social Hour, a resort-wide happy hour at the Cosmopolitan. I had to try the pork bun, the now-iconic dish that laid the foundation for Chef David Chang’s culinary empire. From soft bun to rich pork to simple sauce and garnish, it definitely lived up to its reputation. I was also wowed by the chilled noodles that were coated in a spicy sauce and piled with a satisfying combination of basil, sausage, and candied cashew.

Another Social Hour standout was China Poblano, Chef José Andrés’ colorful fusion of Mexican and Chinese flavors. I went with one dish from each cuisine, and while I enjoyed the messy, red-sauced pork bun, tucking a crunchy chicharron into a melty quesadilla was the truly genius move.

And because I apparently couldn’t get enough of the Cosmopolitan’s restaurant selection, I also dined at Beauty & Essex, whose dining room is hidden behind a pawn shop facade with jewelry and fancy guitars. The bone marrow was flawless, with wine-braised shallot marmalade to smear onto strips of toast along with the marrow itself. The tuna poké wonton tacos were bright and refreshing (not to mention adorably served).

My first meal of the trip was at Mesa Grill, Chef Bobby Flay’s high-end Mexican restaurant at Caesar’s Palace. The pork tenderloin was some of the best pork I’ve ever had, a perfect medium with sweet and spicy sauces, and the pecan-buttered tamale on the side was an excellent take on sweet potato. I couldn’t help but think that the blue and yellow corn muffin in the bread basket looked familiar – and then realized it was from when I dined at the original New York location way back in 2008.

At the Venetian, we loved the canal-side view from the patio at B&B Burger & Beer (the B’s are for Mario Batali and Joe Bastanich). The burger itself was rich and extra cheesy, with nice bitter contrast from grilled treviso (a variety of radicchio).

Todd English’s Olives at the Bellagio was well-suited for a late dinner after our daytrip to the Grand Canyon’s west rim (unimaginably vast and beautiful, by the way). Both the fig-prosciutto and smoked salmon flatbreads had a ton of flavor, and also kept well as leftovers the next day.

Gordon Ramsay is another celebrity chef with a solid presence in Vegas, so decided to fit his pub into the agenda. The pub chopped salad was a pleasant surprise, especially considering its long list of potentially disparate ingredients (shrimp, pretzel crisp, chickpeas, salami, white cheddar, and more).

For the opposite of a salad, we made an obligatory trip to In-N-Out, the West Coast burger chain with a cult following. The not-so-secret animal-style fries with cheese, grilled onions, and burger spread did indeed hit the spot.

On the sweeter side, I made sure to stop at Milk Bar, which is affiliated with and right next to Momofuku. Their signature Crack Pie (gooey butter cake with oat crust) was available in soft-serve form, and it did manage to capture the same level of decadence.

I also sampled the gelato at Jean Philippe Patisserie, a Bellagio shop that’s best known for boasting what they claim to be the world’s largest chocolate fountain. A few of the floor-to-ceiling glass shelves and flowing chocolate are shown in the background below.

And of course, you can’t spend a week in 100-plus degree desert temperatures without a few frozen drinks. I knew that Island Time was a rare purveyor of famed Dole Whip (pineapple soft serve), so I stopped by one sweltering evening for their citrusy Whip It cocktail. Though I’ve never seen anything melt so fast, it was just right for the heat.

With its multiple locations along the Strip, Fat Tuesday is the main supplier of the comically large frozen drinks that many people tote from place to place. I ordered a blend of the bellini and pina colada flavors of frozen daiquiri – both tasty and not as saccharine as you’d expect – and split it among personalized cups made as souvenirs for my friends.

One night, we went old-school Italian at Battista’s Hole in the Wall, a place that’s been around since 1970. It kept coming up in my dining research, possibly because meals are such a bargain. The generously portioned entrees all include soup or salad, garlic bread, cappuccino (which was closer to hot chocolate), and unlimited carafes of house wine. My veal parmesan was the red-sauce classic I was hoping for, and fit right into the endearingly kitschy atmosphere.

I also made sure to visit the downtown area to experience a bit of Old Vegas, and was delighted to find a hidden craft brewery gem among the glitter and grit of Fremont Street. The coffee kolsch was especially good, and reminded me a lot of a Portland brew that I’ve wanted to re-discover ever since.

While downtown, I explored the Downtown Container Park, continuing the trend of converting old shipping containers into shops and eateries. I’d heard that Pinches Tacos was the place to go, and both the tacos and flautas delivered. I also really enjoyed my coconut cold brew at The Black Cup Coffee Co. stand – it gave me the boost I needed to continue my delicious adventures.

The details: The Buffet at Wynn, 3131 S. Las Vegas Blvd.; Todd English’s Olives and Jean Philippe Patisserie at Bellagio, 3600 S. Las Vegas Blvd.; Mesa Grill and Gordon Ramsay Pub & Grill at Caesars Palace, 3570 S. Las Vegas Blvd.; Beauty & Essex, China Poblano, Milk Bar, and Momofuku at Cosmopolitan, 3708 S. Las Vegas Blvd.; B&B Burger & Beer at Venetian, 3355 S. Las Vegas Blvd.; Fat Tuesday at Grand Canal Shoppes, 3377 S. Las Vegas Blvd.; Island Time Floats Tiki Bar at Grand Bazaar Shops, 3631 S. Las Vegas Blvd.; In-N-Out Burger at Linq, 3535 S. Las Vegas Blvd.; The Black Cup Coffee Co. and Pinches Tacos at Downtown Container Park, 707 Fremont St.; Banger Brewing, 450 Fremont St.; Battista’s Hole in the Wall, 4041 Linq Ln.; all Las Vegas, Nevada.