Smoked trout sandwich with fennel, mascarpone, honey, and lavender
Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Simplicity reigns at the Winchester, a neighborhood café that opened a few months ago on the street of the same name. As I perused the clean, uncomplicated menu, the smoked trout sandwich jumped out immediately. What stood out most within the first few bites was the textural contrast of the trout, its crispy skin and flaky flesh intermingling in a way almost reminiscent of sardines. The other aromatic components – fennel, mascarpone, honey, and lavender – lent a sweet and floral complexity, joining the trout inside plump bread that fell somewhere between a pretzel roll and a split-top bun. I also love that this photo captures the sunlight through the window, because the natural light streaming into the airy, minimalist space was what made the atmosphere especially lovely during my lunch.
The details:The Winchester, 1001 N. Winchester, Chicago.
Pickles two ways: beer-battered with ranch, and marinated in cherry kool-aid
Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: The stakes were a little higher than usual at this recent meal: I was challenged to prove to a skeptical Memphian that there’s good barbecue to be found in Chicago. With my reputation on the line, I had faith that two restaurants in particular would meet the lofty standards of someone who hails from a BBQ capital: Lillie’s Q and Smoque (which will be phase two). After our party secured a window table at Lillie’s, we started with two preparations of pickles. The fried pickles came in substantial beer-battered slices – they almost looked more like fried oysters – alongside a thin ranch dipping sauce. While they were a solid snack, what really earned the seal of Southern authenticity was the jar of fiery red kool-aid pickles, sweet from a cherry kool-aid marinade and spicy on the finish. As conversation turned to tales of childhood nostalgia, I knew we were already on the right track.
Half-pound of pulled pork (pre-sauce) and collard greens with ham hock
The real test, of course, was the meat. The half-pound portion of pulled pork was as smoky and perfect on its own as I’d remembered, but I couldn’t resist splashing bites with almost every one of the diverse sauces (it also reminded me to replenish my own fridge, where I consistently stock either the Smoky or Carolina retail varieties). My generous side of greens provided a welcome vinegary contrast, and the potent moonshine cocktails were a fitting libation. I’m proud (and relieved) to report that Lillie’s Q passed the test, so my credibility remains intact.
A few variations on moonshine: blueberry, apple pie, and just neat
The details:Lillie’s Q, 1856 W. North Ave., Chicago.
Open-faced breakfast burger with grass-fed beef burger, cinnamon-raisin french toast, canadian and applewood bacon, maple syrup, sharp cheddar, and sunny-side-up egg
Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: I’ve blogged about my sweet-savory brunch dilemma before, and it remains my most difficult decision on any morning menu. So if there’s a dish that combines both in one, you can bet I’ll be ordering it. Only available on the weekend Farmer’s Breakfast menu, this open-faced burger immediately reminded me of a gourmet, locally sourced, next-level McGriddle (in a good way, of course). It packs three kinds of meat – canadian bacon, applewood bacon, and the grass-fed beef patty – plus cheddar and an chive-flecked egg, all atop a slice of syrup-soaked cinnamon-raisin french toast. While it’s certainly decadent, the portion is still manageable and satisfied every brunch craving at once. The setting is just as pleasant: from the cheery red door flanked by fresh tulips to the farm-themed decor throughout the restaurant, I felt right at home.
A weathered red door and fresh tulips at the entrance set off the farm décor
Gumbo with Gunthorp chicken, house andouille, and potato salad
Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: Analogue, a fairly new addition to my neighborhood, has introduced me to a combination I never knew my life was missing until now: craft cocktails paired with authentic Cajun food (in other words, just one more reason to love living in Logan Square). On the cocktail side, the Best in Show had the citrusy tang and foamy egg white crown of a Pisco sour, plus a heavy dose of cinnamon. It had sweetness and complexity that made it exciting to drink – although that probably was to be expected from the Violet Hour veterans who are behind the drinks here. Meanwhile, the standout dish was a Cajun classic: gumbo with tender chicken, house-made andouille sausage, okra, and a small dollop of potato salad, which I later learned was the result of German influence on Creole traditions. The moderate heat and blackened, smoky base notes in the meaty broth were what really kept me going back for more spoonfuls.
Best in Show cocktail with Encanto Grand & Noble Pisco, cream sherry, lime, cinnamon syrup, and egg white
The details:Analogue, 2523 N. Milwaukee Ave., Chicago.
Soft-scrambled eggs with smoked Lake Superior whitefish, salmon roe, chives, and country bread
Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: I was excited to try Kinmont, a new seafood place that recently opened just blocks from my office, and certainly support the restaurant’s commitment to serving entirely sustainable fish. I’d already heard great things about the soft-scrambled eggs; and sure enough, the eggs’ texture was creamy and light without being runny, perfect for spreading on the thick country bread. The eggs were also studded with both smoked whitefish and salmon roe, a double-punch of seafood flavor. Another favorite, the Skuna bay salmon tartare, covered a more Nordic flavor profile: fresh fish intermingled with mustard, cornichon, egg, and lots of dill. The tartare was served with sturdy, herbaceous flatbread that had great crunch.
Skuna Bay salmon tartare with cornichons, shallots, mustard, and crisp bread
We also wanted to try one of the vegetable sides, and were immediately intrigued by the pairing of grilled mushrooms and smoked ricotta. The char from the grill and the smoky, rich ricotta played off each other to give the woody mushrooms surprising depth, and a generous shower of lemon zest added brightness.
Grilled mushrooms with smoked buttermilk ricotta and lemon
Belly dog, an all-beef hot dog with with egg noodles, pickled green papaya, and togarashi-spiced fries
Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: I was a little shocked to realize that I haven’t blogged about Belly Shack yet, since it’s one of my very favorite places to eat and a go-to recommendation for pretty much anyone. It’s a casual, inexpensive BYOB spot right underneath the Blue Line with a menu that’s the perfect fusion of Latin and Asian (Chef Bill Kim is Korean, and wife and co-owner Yvonne is Puerto Rican). I’m also going to admit that even in such a hot dog-obsessed town, this off-the-wall Belly dog might be tops in my book. Piled high with egg noodles, fried shallots, pickled papaya, and a smear of curry mayo, the dog is a messy affair, even despite its sturdy roll. But the spicy, creamy, crunchy tangle of flavors is well worth it. And I don’t know what it is about the togarashi seasoning that’s both on the fries and in the extra curry mayo dipping sauce, but it is absolutely addictive. It’s salty and funky, and works wonderfully with heaps of lime zest to take the crispy fries to a whole new level.
The details:Belly Shack, 1912 N. Western Ave., Chicago.
Why it’s this week’s Best Bite: We technically visited Hyde Park newcomer A10 during Restaurant Week, but since we didn’t go for the three-course menu, I wanted to save this for a separate (albeit delayed) post. This pastry capped off a rich, seafood-heavy Sunday brunch. Besides its sheer beauty in the afternoon sun, the sticky bun was a knockout in flavor, its swirl of peanut butter brioche dough covered in bright elderberry syrup and powdered sugar. The dough was on the lighter, crispier side, which made it feel even more like a high-end peanut-butter-and-jelly sandwich. It’s safe to say that whenever I return to A10 for dinner, I’ll definitely be ordering dessert.
Best Bite: When it comes to French bistro fare, steak frites is about as classic as it gets, and this version was transportive. The well-seasoned steak was a tender medium-rare, the frites were especially crispy, and the peppery sauce was rich with just enough creaminess. The mini dessert trio was just as well executed, though; and I was certainly relieved to not have to choose between mousse and crème brûlée. See full menu.
Dessert trio with chocolate mousse, crème brûlée, and meyer lemon sorbet
Other notes: The oven-roasted escargots were an indulgent start to the meal, but perhaps even better was dipping pieces of our still-hot baguette into the leftover garlic-herb butter. I couldn’t let those remnants go to waste! The cozy bistro environs were perfect for discussing exciting upcoming travel plans with two girlfriends, especially over a food-friendly Côtes du Rhône red.
Piping hot baguette to start the meal
The details:Mon Ami Gabi, 2300 N. Lincoln Park West, Chicago.
Best Bite: The meatballs boasted major beef flavor, with enough moisture to retain a smooth texture, and the house-made ravioli was silky and nutty. But it was the chocolate budino dessert that stole my heart: a rich chocolate pudding with a salt-flecked layer of caramel, and crunchy coated cocoa nibs on top. I didn’t understand why the handle of its accompanying spoon was quite so long, but it didn’t stop me from finishing every drop. See full menu.
Bill’s chocolate budino with salted caramel and cocoa nibs (plus an extra-long spoon)
Other notes: Bill and Giuliana Rancic are partners in the restaurant, so I assumed the dining room’s aesthetic would be ultra-polished for its clientele – and it was, everything in stylish black and white. The “cicchetti” of provolone-stuffed peppers and florentine frittelles were nice snacks to start off the meal.
Ravioli a la RPM with walnuts and arugula pesto
The details:RPM Italian, 52 W. Illinois St., Chicago.
Red apple orchard sangria (shiraz, brandy, apple juice, and cinnamon sticks) at our fireside table
Best Bite: ZED451’s churrasceria-style format was a hit with our group of nine. The $33 menu price included all we could eat from the “harvest table” of salads and charcuterie, plus unlimited chicken, steak, and salmon, and a final dessert, so it was an especially good Restaurant Week value. Several of the harvest table’s offerings were creative, flavorful mash-ups, such as guacamole deviled eggs and caesar salad made from brussels sprouts. With so many more eclectic options than that of a standard salad bar, it was even easier to fill up before the meat arrived. I also took the suggestion of a sign at the charcuterie station and saved some of the Shiraz butter to spread onto a piece of sirloin (it was a great suggestion). A pitcher of cinnamon-apple sangria also suited the festive occasion. See full menu.
Broccoli cheddar soup, brussels sprout caesar salad, guacamole deviled eggs, spicy Thai apple and carrot salads, sautéed wild mushrooms, and more bounty from the harvest table
Other notes: Somewhere between our second round of salads and the first round of meat, our server brought miniature, meat-studded biscuits served in a repurposed escargot pan – with melted butter in the middle round spot – that were very popular at our table. The buzzing atmosphere was great for a large group, with our long table extending out from a sizable round fireplace in the center of the room. As a final touch that was befitting of tony River North, the restaurant offered us a free private shuttle that took us a few miles north toward our next destination.
